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Archive for November, 2011

I had never paid much attention to my country’s flag until May 14, 2007.

My ship, the MV Explorer, pulled into San Diego Harbor, her horns blaring. The crew hoisted up the flag of the United States of America as Ray Charles’ America The Beautiful played over the speakers. That was to be my last day as a Semester at Sea student and my first glimpse of the American mainland in almost four months. I had never felt more devastated, or more alive.

In honor of this week’s #FriFotos theme, Flags, I present to you some of the flags I saw during my truly life-changing journey.

Peace, love, and study abroad.

Fort San Felipe del Morro, Puerto Rico

Welcome Reception at Puerto Rico's Universidad del Corazon Sagrado

"Ordem e Progresso"

Lone flag flies at South Africa's Robben Island

All of the flags of our trip on our Semester at Sea t-shirt

Flags greet visitors of the Thai Buddist Temple in Penang, Malaysia

China, the Red Country

Home, (bitter)sweet home

Dedicated to my SAS Spring 2007 Family.

#FriFotos is a Twitter event founded by @EpsteinTravels. Search the hashtag every Friday to see photography from around the world illustrating the theme of the week.

To see my past #FriFotos submissions, click here!

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Standing in the middle of a bustling night market in downtown Qindao, a group of gaunt American college students with empty stomachs stumble against the push and pull of the immense Chinese crowd, feeling a bit discouraged. We had set out with a very clear mission: to find food of a different variation than Chinese. Five days spent bringing meat of every assortment – cow, chicken, pig, turtle, goat, cat, dog, duck – to our mouths via chopsticks had simply been one day too many. We wanted, nay we craved, American food, wonderful, glorious, scrumptious American food. And specifically, we wanted pizza. On a fork.

The beginning of the night ... so naive.

An hour before the five of us had been optimistic, beaming, bursting with the kind of energy that the truly naïve possess. We pulled out an English map of Qindao, scoured the longitudinal and latitudinal lines until we found the location in grid C3 of one “W-Mart,” and our hearts danced a merry jig for right next to the “W-Mart” we found the happy words “Pizza Hut.” Visions of pepperoni slices and ice cold colas danced in our heads. I found myself fantasizing about taking that perfect bite of a slice of gooey, cheesy pizza, pulling it away from my mouth in slow motion, a greasy string of hot melting cheese marking the trail to my lips. Perhaps a symphony would be playing in the background; I don’t know.

No symphony plays when our taxi dropped us off in the middle of a night market somewhere in downtown Qindao. Our driver points fervently at the crowds of people gathered around the stands. We only protest for half of a second, but he has no idea what we are saying to him, so we give up, pay him, and walk into the cool night, our heads bobbing in every direction looking for any sign of the English language.

Thwarted only for a couple of minutes by the prospects of cheap market shopping (which turns out to be tables full of hair brushes, nail clippers, and cheaply constructed Puma sneaker knock-offs), we all stand, huddled on the corner of one street and another, underneath a highway underpass, having no idea whatsoever what to do. We cross the road and enter a department store and travel up to the very top floor, the children’s toy section. It is nearing 10:00pm; the is store empty, except for a few employees looking bored at their registers. Unfortunately none of them speak English, so when we ask them if they know where the Pizza Hut is, they smile and shake their heads apologetically. It is during this surreal scene: at the top of the escalator on the top floor of a random department store in a random city in China that I feel the most dejected.

Hunger leaves us mesmerized by the rhythmic motion of the escalator’s steps, whooshing out and moving downward, when out of the white bleak nothing appears a man who asks us (in English!) if we need help. “Yes!” we scream at him, five voices strong.

“We need to find the Pizza Hut.”

“I am sorry,” he replies. “You need the pizza? P-I-Z-Z-A?”

“YES!” we exclaim at him once more, urgency and excitement building.

“You do not like the food in China?” he asks, eyeing our pale skin and correctly deducing from our features and our request that we are foreigners.

Our explanations, which sound more like excuses, seem weak when they come out of our mouths. “We’ve had Chinese food for the past 4 days straight – breakfast, lunch, and dinner!” “Our bodies need a break!” “I left my Pepto Bismol in my cabin!” “We need an English translator at the restaurant with us and we haven’t found any yet!” And finally: “I miss home.”

“Okay, okay, okay,” our new friend assures us. “I will take you to the best pizza restaurant in the entire city.”

(more…)

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Oh Fall, Oh Autumn, the very antithesis of Spring and its blooming hope, You are what stands between us and the cold, grey gloom of Winter. Even though I choose to interpret Your reds, Your oranges, Your yellows the firey protest of all frigidity to come, sitting on a park bench watching each leaf drop individually lends itself to a symphony of contemplative sadness. Summer is over. The year almost over. And just as you think you might be able to stop time, to catch each leaf and somehow surgically reattach it to tree, you notice the bed of leaves already on the ground. It is the impossible task.

Fallingwater and its creator were on the cover of Time Magazine in 1938. credit: fallingwater.org

Time is as unstoppable as water. Perhaps no American architect understood our relationship with nature than Frank Lloyd Wright. The house, Fallingwater, integrated into a waterfall in Bear Run, Pennsylvania is perhaps his most famous and masterful design. Designed and built for the Kaufmann family, the successful and wealthy owners of the Pittsburgh department store “Kaufmann’s,” Fallingwater was used as a weekend house from 1939 until 1963. In 1964 the Kaufmanns donated it to the Western Pennsylvania Conservancy and it opened as a museum.

Fallingwater’s outside, as you can see from my Autumnal photograph, slides seamlessly into the setting, its aesthetics so pleasing; the interior just as organic. Local boulders form the fireplace and the natural formation of the ledge rock protrudes through the floor of the living room. In one bedroom, an extended family of ladybugs have politely settled in one corner of the room, closest to the window, the newest occupants of a house which seems to have forgotten that outside is inside and inside is outside and anyway it was done all on purpose. It feels polished, minimalist, peaceful.

What better place to spend a Fall day than FALLingwater? Fallingwater is located approximately 2 hours drive away from Pittsburgh. It is an American treasure. Go! For more information about visiting click here. (According to the Fallingwater website, over 4 million people have visited since it opened to the public!)

Thou watchest the last oozings, hours by hours.

#FriFotos is a Twitter event founded by @EpsteinTravels. Search the hashtag every Friday to see photography from around the world illustrating the theme of the week.

To see my past #FriFotos submissions, click here!

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First, I want to stress that I use the term “meeting” extremely loosely. My three-second encounter with Joan Didion consisted of my uttering “thank you so much” as she signed my copy of Slouching Towards Bethlehem. Of course by “thank you so much,” what I really meant was “It is such an honor to (be standing in front of you/let you touch my reprinted-in-2008-edition-of-your-published-in-1961 book/breathe the same air as you).” But then, she looked at me. And a strange sensation came over me; the only word I can conjure to describe the feeling is that I felt … shattered.

I don’t think you could call Ms. Didion a travel writer, but she is a master evocator of place. In her essays, places like Las Vegas, Hawaii, New York, and especially California are as much characters as the people she writes about. In reading Joan Didion, I was first awakened to the idea that you could have a relationship with a city. In The White Album, she writes:

“…quite simply, I was in love with New York. I do not mean ‘love’ in any colloquial way, I mean that I was in love with the city, the way you love the first person who ever touches you and you never love anyone quite that way again. I remember walking across Sixty-second Street one twilight that first spring, or the second spring, they were all alike for a while. I was late to meet someone but I stopped at Lexington Avenue and bought a peach and stood on the corner eating it and knew that I had come out of the West and reached the mirage.”

By “West” she means California, a state and state of mind she spends a considerable portion of her nonfiction career navigating. What does it mean to be from California? Does it mean that you come from nowhere or everywhere, or that you’re there because the people before you simply ran out of room to keep going? The mythic California of Joan Didion’s writing is one that I carry with me as a reader, writer, and traveler.

“California is a place in which a boom mentality and a sense of Chekhovian loss meet in uneasy suspension; in which the mind is troubled by some buried but ineradicable suspicion that things better work here, because here, beneath the immense bleached sky,is where we run out of continent.”

These words, written by a woman who won her job at Vogue by winning an essay contest her senior year of college (working her way from copy-editor to associate feature editor in two years), by a woman who had published dozens of pieces exploring the American cultural attitude of the 1960s, by a woman who, in a span of about two years from 2003 to 2005 suffered the loss of both her husband and her daughter. And that’s where my path crossed with hers: at a book reading for Blue Nights, a follow-up memoir to The Year of Magical Thinking.

Where The Year of Magical Thinking chronicles the death of her husband, Blue Nights follows the death of her daughter. And because I am naive, or perhaps because I can’t truly appreciate loss, I watched with part sadness and part confusion a woman who has been left completely alone. In the forward of Slouching Towards Bethlehem, she acknowledges that her “only advantage as a reporter is that [she] is so physically small, so temperamentally unobtrusive, and so neurotically inarticulate that people tend to forget that [her] presence runs counter to their best interests;” she could inoffensively slip her physical frame into the action of a situation and come away with the story. But now, her smallness seems less like a tool than the finished product, that personal hardship has whittled her down. As she brushed away a tear during the interview, which took place Thursday evening at the Free Library of Philadelphia, my heart felt tugged to many places at once.

Nearly all of the questions posed to Ms. Didion pertained to her grief. “What was harder for you? The sudden death of your husband (who died of a heart attack) or the prolonged illness of your daughter (who was in and out of hospitals for two years before succumbing to acute pancreatitis)?” This question, followed by “Do you feel that you’ve recovered now, and if so how?” Ms. Didion’s answers were short. “Both deaths were hard.” and “I haven’t recovered. My life was better before.” Perhaps my favorite question/answer: “Why did you decide to write about this experience?” “Because I’m a writer.”

But what of her illustrious career? What about California? It was clear from Joan Didion’s deep, clear, blue-eyed, gaze at me after signing my book that none of that matters. The question I most wanted to ask her, after I realized we wouldn’t be talking to Joan Didion The Author but Joan Didion The Wife and Mother, was “Was it worth it?” Can all that pain worth it?

I think I’ll always be influenced by Joan Didion’s early work: the theme of where you come from and where you go and what kind of person that makes you will always fascinate me. But I’m now aware that it’s not everything and that nothing really matters except the people you love. And this is something that I struggle with every day. Why do I wake up every morning with the strongest desires to hit the road…is it because I’m trying to run away? Is my engine fueled by the fear of feeling settled, only to lose everything?

I don’t know. And in this I share something with the great Joan Didion:

“Nothing makes sense until I write it down.”

Amen.

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This past weekend I went to Charleston for Halloween. I love Charleston, as much as I love all places that shut completely down when the white stuff falls from the sky (because it so rarely does). I don’t think I should apologize for loving hot climates. And for the record, I do not think that the “The bitter cold nights of Winter make you appreciate the warm, sunny greatness of Summer” is a valid argument. I don’t subscribe to masochism, and that applies to the “Four Seasons.”

So this weekend, my mom sent me this image from Pennsylvania:

Photo credit: Mom

And this is where I was when she sent it to me:

Later, my friend Samantha sent this photo from the Turnpike between Philadelphia and Harrisburg:

Photo credit: Samantha Sullivan

And here’s how I felt about being in South Carolina during the Grinch (er, Nor’easter) that stole Halloween:

I’m not sorry I missed the snow.

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