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It is a truth universally acknowledged that Japan dislodged itself from the present and now exists in some kind of space-time future. Things that can be found on a normal stroll through Tokyo include: vending machines full of beer, vending machines full of underwear, vending machines full of mp3 players, buildings that talk to you (and then laugh at you, as you walk by), and should you need to stop for a pee, toilet seat warmers (each public stall complete with its own automated sound machine playing the looping sounds of rushing water, lest your defecating neighbor hear your business, or vice versa).

All of this was complete news to me the first time I visited. Japan was my next-to-last stop on my round-the-world journey, a journey that previously took me from the top of Table Mountain to the depths of the Cu Chi Tunnels. “What are you going to wear in Japan?” my inquisitive roommate asked. “Um, what I normally do, I guess,” I responded, thinking of my Merrill hiking boots, white t-shirts, and rugged jeans that accompanied me all the way through my four-month journey.

“Amanda, don’t you know that Japanese fashion is like two years ahead of fashion in New York or Paris?” she asked. I had no choice but to believe her, after all, she was from New York City. The only response I could conjure was “Oh no.”

Below, my findings from my week in various parts of Japan, taken as hastily and sneakily as I could.

In Harajuku, the street style was crazy but not too over-the-top:

Harajuku

Harajuku

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

This last picture is my favorite. I’m clearly trying to capture the style of the girl in the far right side of the frame, but instead I catch a lot of the street and my friend’s shoe.

In Japan, you’d kind of run into what I can only describe as a bunch of different schools of fish in one big sea. In Harajuku, the fish were bright and colorful, expending all of their effort to be unique and stand out. In other parts of Tokyo, however, the style was a lot more standardized. I’m talking about, of course, the swarms of men in business suits:

business suits

And look, there I am! Clearly trying the best to be as fashionable as possible. White lacy top, blue jeans, a pair of $2 Old Navy rubber flip-flops (those flip-flops and my hiking boots were the only two pairs of shoes I had packed for my trip). I’m employing a classic American style trick: roll with the basics. What could go wrong?

oh god those flipflops

A few days later, I would find that EVERYTHING can go wrong when you are walking across a country wearing Old Navy flip-flops. If I could impart one piece of travel wisdom on all of you it would be NEVER WEAR OLD NAVY FLIP-FLOPS, unless the total distance of your travels is from your beach front hotel to the edge of the ocean. NEVER EVER employ them for city travels.

But as it turned out there is no better place to be than Kyoto, capital of geisha culture, when the Old Navy flip-flops finally become unbearable. Because ONLY in Kyoto is it acceptable to wear socks with flip-flops. (Only in Kyoto is it possible to find socks that will even accommodate flip-flops.) So, much to the delight of my travel companions and the chagrin of the whole fashion world, I worked this look for the rest of the week (OH GOD WHY!):

ugh

THE SOCKS

One thing that I am genuinely happy to report is that Japanese fashion is not in fact two years ahead of American fashion. During my travels in 2007, the ubiquitous trend on women was shorts coupled with knee socks and high-heels.

taking a picture of me taking a picture of you

hawt

I noticed none of this really going on in 2009, even though I braced myself and my short chunky legs for this to happen. I guess only time will really tell if this trend is yet to be, and only then will we truly know how far ahead in the future Japan really is.

Until then I will have to live with the knowledge that even Japanese children dress better than me:

japanese children

#FriFotos is a Twitter event founded by @EpsteinTravels. Search the hashtag every Friday to see photography from around the world illustrating the theme of the week.

To see my past #FriFotos submissions, click here!

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Author note: This post was inspired by an absolutely beautiful essay of the same name by Erica Ho on The Hairpin. If you are a travel blogger too, I’d love to read your version of A Tale of Six Cities. Feel free to add your link to the comments section.

Cape Town

There is a rumor about a full lunar eclipse that night, but these are the days before smart phones, and, wandering around in the early evening hours with tummies satiated with wine, we do not have (or know how to) access to internet. I see a pay phone. “HOLD ON EVERYBODY!” as I fumble with a money belt filled with rand. The only phone number I know by heart is my best friend’s, so I call her. I haven’t heard her voice in over a month.

“Kelly! I don’t have much time, because I’m on a pay-phone! Can you tell me if there will be a lunar eclipse tonight in South Africa?”

“Amanda! It’s so good to hear from you! But, I’m not at home. I’m out on campus studying …  [Remember, these are the days before smart phones]. But I can go home to my computer and check. Can you give me 15 minutes and call again?”

“Okay!”

We wait twenty. I call her back, and she confirms that there will be a lunar eclipse visible in the southern hemisphere that night. She tells me the time and which direction in the sky to look. Then we hang up.

Paris

In Paris, I feel the most American. I’m big, I’m loud. I yelled “Oh my GOD!” (phonetically: “gawd,” accidentally) in an elderly woman’s face when I spotted the storefront window of Louis Vuitton. (They put all the purses in bird cages. It was precious.) The woman glared at me with disgust. (But, really, this was an exception. Parisians are very lovely. And, I probably deserved it.)

One night, Jen and Kelly and I are getting ready to go out. We are staying with Jen’s sister, an American ex-pat, and all we know is that we’re going to a cool, edgy, small rock concert, which will probably be populated with a lot of cool, edgy, small Parisians. I am stressed. My friends look cool, edgy, and small. “What should I wear? Should I change?” I whine, looking despondently into my suitcase packed with nothing right. “Well, you could probably brush your hair,” offers Jen.

New York

You never forget your first love.

Tokyo

I travel with two people whose travel style could not be more different than mine. They always want to ask for help. I never want to appear vulnerable. I never question what it must look like, then, when we constantly get lost in the subway tubes and they tag-team a commuter using broken Japanese and their best “help me” faces, while I shirk their method and, embarrassed to be seen asking for assistance, slink off into some dark corner with a map, willing my brain to play match-the-symbols. It begins to cause a rift between us, and I acknowledge the rift, because, well, I put it there.

We are on our way to a Tokyo Giants baseball game. They play at the Toyko Dome, and we, of course, are running very late and are very lost. I should mention that an evening spent in Tokyo watching a baseball game is my idea, and as my two friends and I stand on some random far-away-from-the-Dome Tokyo street corner, I am so upset. I would rather not go to the game than ask for help. And maybe I throw a little bit of a fit and say “I would rather not go to the game than ask for help.” My poor friends. We stand surrounding a map in a sea of men-in-business suits rushing this way and that (even at this late hour) when out of the chaos emerges a Japanese woman who speaks English. “Do you need help?” she asks. My friends hesitate to answer. They don’t want to upset me further so I say “Yes, we want to go to the Tokyo Dome.” She says “Follow me” and escorts us across through two subway transfers all the way to the ticket line. “Arigatou” we say, and then we go watch a baseball game and she gets back on the subway to go home and I feel like an ass.

Las Vegas

I am so drunk. I am so drunk, but I make a mental note that this casino is pretty tacky. Not the best on the Strip. Dark carpets, muted colors, desperate people. It’s still early, at least for Vegas, but he is jet-lagged so he’s trying to help me put on my jacket. It’s a tough task, and as I’m  twisting my arm around in the only way that could make jacket-putting-on more difficult, I spot a wedding chapel. After that night, I will wait for days for him to confirm my Facebook friendship request.

Mexico City

If there was one word for Mexico City, it would be traffic. A lot of sitting. Waiting. Instead of stressing me, it puts me at ease. As long as we are sitting in the back seat of this cab, sandwiched between other cars, time remains suspended. Our flight is scheduled to depart twelve hours from now, but I just want to sit, sit, sit, wait, wait wait. “What’s that smell?” Allison asks. “It’s diesel,” I say. The smell reminds me of so many other cities I’ve been to before. I love it. In that moment, I know that I have to do.

But it lingers, that question of whether I can do it alone.

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In Hiroshima, you are at once bombarded by two clocks. The first is a Peace Watch, keeping count of the number of days passed since the first dropping of the atomic bomb, and the number of days since the last nuclear test. This photo was taken on April 28, 2007.

The second is an image inside the museum, a photograph of the effect the atomic bomb had on watches; that is, time simply stopped at 8:15am, August 6, 1945.

For more on Hiroshima, click here.

#FriFotos is a Twitter event founded by @EpsteinTravels. Search the hashtag every Friday to see photography from around the world illustrating the theme of the week.

To see my past #FriFotos submissions, click here!

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Taking ten minutes out of my hectic moving & traveling month to participate in #FriFotos. First time in a month…have you missed me?

The colorful attire of choir singers in South Africa

The colorful cranes at Hiroshima Peace Memorial

Macaroons...France's most colorful snack!

The colorful Chihuly ceiling of the Bellagio in Las Vegas

That’s all for now! Hopefully I’ll be back soon!

#FriFotos is a Twitter event founded by @EpsteinTravels. Search the hashtag every Friday to see photography from around the world illustrating the theme of the week.

To see my past #FriFotos submissions, click here!

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Here, miles from Japan
I stand as if warmed by the
Spring sunshine of home.

Visiting the Portland Japanese Garden was the closest I’ve been to Japan since I rode the bullet train from Tokyo to Hiroshima five years ago. Back then, I was cognizant of the duplicitous nature of Japanese culture, but at the time I was much more focused on and in awe of the vending machines selling everything from underwear to electronics to beer, the heated toilet seats, the Harajuku girls giggling in talking photo booth, the trains that seemed to fly. When viewed through this urban futuristic prism, Japan is utterly alien. During that same trip, I passed through Kyoto, so yeah, all the appropriate confusion descended upon me later. How can a country be so zany and so zen at the same time?

If only I had spent more time in Kyoto, I might have achieved inner peace.

Fortunately, my visit to the Portland Japanese Garden provided me with all the hindsight I needed.

Why Portland?
Portland is the sister city of Sapporo, Japan. Other than that Portland is nothing like Japan. Except maybe weird fashion?

Motifs of a Japanese Garden

All Japanese Gardens incorporate water, stone, and plants. In the Portland Japanese Garden, every plant, every stone, and the water placement lives and breathes with purpose. In the Natural Garden (one of the five styles of gardens there), the waterfall symbolizes the stages of life. It runs fast and strong at the top, in the infancy of its life, and toward the bottom the flow of water calms to reflect the peace of old age.

Zig-zagged paths ward off evil. Evil travels in a straight line, quite literally taking the easy way out.

The beauty is in the blank spaces. Where there exists clutter, there lacks focus. A Japanese room might emulate the idea of the garden. Japanese rooms are very simple, very clean. If there are any decorations, it might be a single flower. When there is one flower in an otherwise blank room, your focus can only be on that flower, and only then can you see all the infinite possibilities of beauty inherent in that one thing. (I warned you this culture was pretty zen!)

Oh, and those super enlightened Japanese know that imperfection is a virtue, which is why they wouldn’t fix this crack in the wall:

To age gracefully is to acknowledge that there is a beginning, middle, and end to life. An emphasis on seasons is a hallmark of a Japanese Garden and in the Portland Japanese Garden, this idea is exemplified in the Flat Garden. There, a planted cherry tree represents spring; a maple tree illustrates autumn.

Why you should go?

The Portland Japanese Garden has five directions. Front, back, left, right, and center. Here, you will find your center and leave feeling as though you finally understand that other side to Japan. Here, miles away from Japan

AND LOOK! They are having a Free Admission Day on February 20!

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